Paris Fashion Week ended on Wednesday, which means that the insanity that is Fashion Month is officially over. And, though, the next round of shows isn’t for another six months you can bet your bottom dollar that every single designer has put this collection to bed and is already thinking about the next . . . ah fashion!
Paris, I must admit it is definitely my favorite fashion week of them all (not that I have actually been to a real live show in the oh so dreamy city of lights just yet. Again, a girl can dream! Mark my words!! Someday!!) I’m not sure why the Paris shows captivate me so much, perhaps it is the beauty and enchantment of the city or the history that is enmeshed with most of the houses that show in Paris. It is true that nearly all of the big hitters, the history makers, the greats . . . the likes of Chanel, Givenchy, Lanvin, McQueen, Gaultier, and on and on and on all show in Paris. Therefore, how can one not, as a fashion lover and connoisseur of sorts, be giddy at the idea of Paris Fashion Week.
Unfortunately, this past week in Paris was overshadowed by a web of controversy that only started with the hideousness that was the John Galliano / Dior debacle. After that came a missing head designer, Christophe Decarnin, at Balmain last Thursday. Was he in rehab for drugs, exhaustion, or simply fired – who knows? Then the rumors flew about the possible dismissal of Hannah MacGibbon from Chloé (which has since been refuted) after the houses less than stellar show. And then, of course there were the rumors concerning who would replace Galliano at Dior that occur almost daily. It’s unfortunate that the mostly inspiring and fabulous fashion that we saw over this past week was overshadowed by all of this nonsense.
As I look back on all of the fab. collections that debuted in Paris over this past week, there was one in particular that I can’t stop thinking about. It was that of one of my all time favorite designer’s, and, yes, his show was amazing, but, let’s be honest, I think absolutely everything he does is out of this world. Therefore, if you read my blog on a regular basis I’m sure you can guess what designer and in turn house I’m referring to. It was Lanvin, of course, and the genius that is Alber Elbaz!
What I love about Lanvin is that, head designer, Alber Elbaz, creates elegant, chic wares that are, well, very covetable and wearable. Additionally, he crafts collections and in turn a shows that tell distinct stories, which build slowly and suspensefully and end, ultimately, with dramatic climaxes and satisfying finales. Along the way he provides subtle hints of what’s to come, creating a bit of mystery and intrigue, which keeps the fashion loving viewer on their edge of their seat, and, of course, always watching to see what comes next.
This season was no exception. For Fall/Winter 2011 Elbaz constructed even more of a narrative of sorts than in seasons past, beginning first and foremost with the shows backdrop . . . a large and imposing weeping willow. This sizable tree stood at the end of the runway and represented a darker and more mysterious setting for Lanvin than usual. The twisted and knotted trunk reached high and its long, drooping branches cast dark shadows along the runway. Why a weeping willow? Elbaz said simply that he loved the look and feel of the tree and that fashion needed a little bit of trees these days. He also mentioned the idea of the tree representing roots and tradition (Style.com).
I, however, think it meant a bit more . . . The mysterious and dark shadows of the willow really set the scene for Elbaz’s story this season. Right out of the gate the tone set by the willow was mirrored in the austere and covered up looks of the first half of the show. As model after model strode down the runway, we saw heaps of cocoon or shell shaped capes and jackets, simple pencil skirts (loved the contrast between the completely covered upper body and the bare legs), tailored coats, flat masculine shoes and some fabulous wide brimmed hats . . . part witch like, part boho.
Lanvin, Fall/Winter 2011
Lanvin Fall/Winter 2011
Lanvin Fall/Winter 2011
Lanvin, Fall/Winter 2011
The hats almost reminded me of the those from the Chis Benz Fall/Winter 2011 show I loved so much at NY fashion week a few weeks ago. Could there have been a southern inspiration for Alber in there somewhere – a la Chris Benz?? The willow is def. a tree that comes to mind when one thinks of the deep south.
Now back to the run of show. This first sequence of looks represented a much more austere, serious woman than we have seen before from Lanvin. Perhaps Elbaz’s version of the powerful corporate woman? There were definitely hints of suits in the tailoring and the bags were reminiscent or the classic brief case. Throughout this first sequence of looks it was clear that Alber had much more in store for us, however, as he peppered them with little hints of change to come. Amongst these more stern and quiet looks, he sprinkled in a bit of softness and zing: a few sexy black LBD’s , some stunning and sweeping one shouldered dresses and some fabulous hardware in the form of statement necklaces: Strong, geometric, striking.
Lanvin, Fall/Winter 2011
Lanvin, Fall/Winter 2011
Lanvin, Fall/Winter 2011
Lanvin, Fall/Winter 2011
Then the stern story began to shift. Out came the lace, the voluminous skirts and collars, the bold flower prints; and, of course, all looks had the signature Lanvin touches: a pinch of fabric here, a fold there. All together these this new elements allowed for softer, more elegant and feminine wares. Even the hats became less stern and more stylized. In this new sequence we saw a softer women, a bit sexier, less stern and serious, but still powerful in a different way.
Lanvin, Fall/Winter 2011
Lanvin, Fall/Winter 2011
Lanvin, Fall/Winter 2011
Lanvin, Fall/Winter 2011
And, finalement, the finale of sorts, which consisted of ten gorg. cocktail dresses in glorious bright, bright hues: blue, red, pink, mustard, magenta, etc. all constructed in a light, airy silk and draped, nipped and tucked to Lanvin perfection. Rather than the wide brimmed hats, the models in this sequence wore flower headpieces very reminiscent of garlands. It was in these final looks that the woman portrayed was the softest, the most feminine and the most jubilant, you could say. But, again, the woman depicted was still a strong one.
Lanvin, Fall/Winter 2011
Lanvin, Fall/Winter 2011
Lanvin, Fall/Winter 2011
Lanvin, Fall Winter 2011
There was something about this collection that really made me think. Was Elbaz telling us a story about a woman moving from a time of sadness to one of utter jubilation? or was he showing us several powerful sides of the female persona – powerful working woman, seductress, party girl? I think, as they say, that beauty is in the eye of the beholder or to each is own. It is really up to one’s own interpretation, much like what one experiences when viewing a work of art in a museum or gallery. Fashion can really be about so much more than just clothes on a hanger, which is why I love it so much . . .
Finale Under the Weeping Willow
I hope that perhaps now you love Lanvin as much as I do 
.
Stay tuned for my thoughts on Dreamy McQueen . . .
xoxo,
In The Seams
Follow IN THE SEAMS to keep up with me and my fashion misadventures, in the thick of it, always on the hunt for high style and on the path to realizing my crazy boutique-owning dreams . .
When i stumbled upon your blog i was forced to stay on it as it was not only Paris fashion instead Paris fashion show,Bookmarked it to visit again.